Sardinia – Up, Down and All Around!
Thinking about going to Sardinia? Here’s our rundown on what to consider before you go and during your trip. We had three primary bases: Cagliari, Alghero on the northwest coast, and Costa Smeralda on the northeast coast.
Cagliari
One reason I wanted to come here was because my teacher Martina was born in Cagliari.
We stayed in the historic Castello area at Birkin Castello, Via Alberto Lamarmora 116-120, 09124 Cagliari, Italy. Our junior suite had a balcony overlooking cobblestone streets and historic buildings. The room was well appointed, but the staff really made it special. Highly recommended—though it can be noisy during early morning street cleaning!
Dining highlights included Su Cumbidu, Via Napoli 13, 09124 Cagliari, Italy (we chose the meat version and enjoyed delicious porceddu), and Sa Domu Sarda, Via Sassari 51, 09124 Cagliari, Italy, where we tried Sardinian dumpling-style pasta. We also ventured to a local beach via bus, scrambling over rocks to reach the water. For three nights and two days, Cagliari was perfect.
The Journey North
On the way to Alghero, we stopped at the famous Su Nuraxi nuraghe in Barumini, a UNESCO World Heritage site dating to the 17th century BC, and the colourful town of Bosa, with its riverside houses and medieval castle. A coffee by the river set us up for the rest of the drive.
Alghero
Alghero is encircled by ancient walls and has a charming cobblestoned old centre. We explored the fortress, cannons, and even indulged in a Cher-inspired ‘Turn Back Time’ moment!
We stayed at Hotel Florida, Via Lido 15, 07041 Alghero, Italy, right on the Lungomare. For five nights, it provided ocean-facing balconies and optional €10/day parking. We enjoyed both dining in and exploring town restaurants:
- La Saletta, Via Fratelli Kennedy 27/b, Alghero – fine dining degustazione menus (€85 per head, worth it).
- Caragol, Via Maiorca 69, Alghero – a true trattoria with salami and cheese tagliere.
- Nerac, Via Don Minzoni, Alghero – chosen for Patric’s birthday steak, decent but overpriced.
The best part was the beaches: crystal-clear water, little fish swimming past, and a vibe that reminded us of a 1960s Gold Coast.
Costa Smeralda
Our base was Baia Sardinia at Grand Hotel Smeralda Beach, Via Tre Monti, 07021 Arzachena, Italy. While it had a private beach and pools, the staff were disappointing—money-hungry and impersonal. Breakfast felt more like a cheap cruise ship than a luxury stay, so we wouldn’t recommend it.
A day trip to Porto Cervo was fascinating—ultra-luxury resorts, designer shops (Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Armani), and some of the most extravagant super yachts we’ve seen. We also visited Palau, Cannigione, and nearby towns. Palau was our ferry point to Corsica.
Corsica Day Trip
From Santa Teresa Gallura we caught the ferry (€35pp) to Bonifacio, Corsica’s oldest town, perched on dramatic limestone cliffs. Highlights included the Citadel, Old Town, coastal paths, and the Marine Cemetery with stunning views. Lunch featured a Cappo spritz, Corsican wine, cheese, tomato crêpes, and stuffed eggplant.
We skipped the legendary Staircase of the King of Aragon (189 steep steps) and instead enjoyed the scenic cliffside path.
Final Stop – Olbia
We wrapped up our Sardinian adventure with one of our favourite steak dinners in Olbia, a bustling city with Nuragic origins and the airport closest to Costa Smeralda. From there, it was time to head to one of our favourite places in Italy – Sicily!