A Week in Ischia – The Odyssey Returns to Paradise
There’s something deeply comforting about returning to a place you know and love. When I think of Ischia, the island off Naples, I picture buzzing Vespas, tender rabbit dishes, crystal-clear swimming waters, and thermal pools with boiling-hot natural springs right in the ocean! Above all, I think of our home base, Hotel Le Querce Resort and Thermal Spa. We caught a ferry from Naples’ main terminal a week ago and the 8 days/7 nights have flown by, blending work and pleasure. We limited ourselves to one big outing per day to soak up the island’s magic at a relaxed pace.
Day 1
We arrived at Ischia Porto and strolled across the road to MotoGP Rent, Via Iasolino, 29, 80077 Ischia, Italy (Website). Last year, a 125cc Vespa cost us €50 per day, but as returning customers renting for seven days, we snagged the same one for €30 per day – €210 for the week! Having your own transport is a bargain on Ischia, where taxi fares can be steep. While buses are an option, June’s heat can be overwhelming, so zipping around with Patric, a confident rider, made all the difference. My first tip: rent a Vespa for freedom and ease. It can be a little scary at times but if you have confidence, all is ok!
That evening, we noticed an armada of superyachts docked at Ischia Porto which changes daily – absolutely stunning to admire. Aperitivi isn’t as big here as on the mainland. We enjoyed one Aperol spritz at a local bar, then switched to crisp Campanian and Ischian white wines. For dinner, we dined at Ristorante Porcavacca, Via Michele Mazzella, 167, 80077 Ischia, Italy (Instagram). Their tagliere plate, featuring four types of meat for €48, was a highlight, paired with a fresh caprese salad.
Day 2
We had a packed day, starting with a 30-minute Vespa ride to Forio on the island’s west side, where we dined at La Tinaia, Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 112, 80075 Forio, Italy (Website). This family-style trattoria and gelateria delivered with tasty alici (anchovies), meat dishes, and the creamiest gelato. The night’s highlight was stumbling across a silent disco in Forio’s main piazza. Hundreds of locals danced with headphones on, and I even joined in!
Earlier that day, we visited Spiaggia degli Inglesi, Via Porto, 80077 Ischia, Italy, a rocky but divine beach near Ischia Porto. The free public beach was perfect for a refreshing dip. Back at Le Querce Resort and Thermal Spa, Via Baldassarre Cossa, 55, 80077 Ischia, Italy (Website), we spent the afternoon by the pool, dipping in and out of the silky, magnesium-rich thermal waters – a luxurious treat.
Day 3
We rode 30 minutes to Negombo Thermal Park, Via San Montano, 80076 Lacco Ameno, Italy (Website), a renowned beach club and spa. For €44, we got two sunbeds and an umbrella. The day was pure relaxation, soaking in the sea and thermal pools with lush gardens as a backdrop. That night, we returned to Trattoria Il Focolare, Via Cretaio, 68, 80070 Barano d’Ischia, Italy (Website), featured on Stanley Tucci’s show last year.
Day 4
We took a 20-minute ferry to Procida, a quaint but rustic island. High walls, narrow streets, and staircases gave it a unique charm, but it felt run-down compared to Ischia’s vibrancy. Other Australians we met preferred Procida’s ultra-relaxed vibe, but for us, Ischia wins for its balance of liveliness and beauty.
Day 5
We visited Baia di Sorgeto, a rocky cove near Sant’Angelo famous for its natural hot springs, accessible via 300 steps from Panza
or a €5 water taxi from Sant’Angelo. This year, we lounged for €20 and savoured anchovy-tomato bruschetta with €3.50 Campari spritzes – a steal compared to pricier wines. A memorable day with incredible views and thermal waters.
Day 6
Our Dante president, Giovanna, suggested we visit Il Fungo, a quirky mushroom-shaped rock formation in Lacco Ameno. Afterwards, we stopped in Sant’Angelo, a car-free village with colourful boutiques and galleries. We also met artist Manuel Di Chiara and bought two original paintings. We walked the hot, sandy Spiaggia delle Fumarole, but the hotel’s thermal pools remained the star. A main highlight was zipping on our Vespa to the front door of a large supermercato near Ischia Porto, ordering alici, prosciutto, polpette, and verdura mista, paired with local wines.
Day 7
We explored Ischia Porto, including the serene community gardens, before returning to Le Querce’s pool to relax and write these stories. Our final night was very memorable. We dined at Da Umberto Ristorante, Via Soccorso, 4, 80075 Forio, Italy (Facebook), a family-run gem opened in the 1950s. Served by warm staff, we savoured delicious pizza and a fresh salad, capping the meal with Rucolino, a delightful Ischian amaro digestivo.
Reflection
Our seven-night stay at Le Querce Resort and Thermal Spa cost €2,000, but we were upgraded to one of the best and largest suites in the hotel – a spacious room with a balcony. The hotel offers stunning views, a fantastic breakfast, and those incredible thermal pools. Ischia’s mix of vibrant ports, tranquil beaches, and thermal wonders has us hooked. I’m already dreaming of returning for the terza volta.