Three Nights in Naples – The Odyssey Continues
It’s been two weeks since we arrived in Naples after our time on Ponza and I’m finally getting a moment to write about this vibrant city while on this working holiday. Time flies when you’re immersed in adventure and working at the same time! Napoli has been nothing short of fascinating. Despite warnings that I’d find it too dirty, too loud, too rustic, or too dangerous, I didn’t experience any of that. Instead, I found a city bursting with culture and a personality all its own. With my husband Patric by my side, I felt completely safe—just made sure not to flaunt expensive jewellery or handbags.
We arrived by ferry from Ponza and dodged a sketchy taxi driver trying to charge €25 for a seven-minute ride to our incredible accommodation (more on that later). We wandered through Naples’ touristy areas, but Via Toledo and the Centro Storico were the most captivating, with their lively streets and historic charm.
Day 1
For our first night, we dined at Pizzeria Brandi, Via Chiaia, 2, 80121 Naples, Italy (Website). It’s celebrated in guidebooks like Lonely Planet as the birthplace of the Margherita pizza. Legend has it that the owner’s wife created this red (tomato), white (flour base), and green (basil) pizza for Queen Margherita’s visit. We ordered one (as well as a Diavola), and it was absolutely worth the hype – simple yet perfect.
Day 2
The next morning, we tried sfogliatelle for the first time at Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Via Chiaia, 1/2, 80132 Naples, Italy (Website). My goodness, what a treat! The flaky, layer-upon-layer puff pastry crunched through to a creamy ricotta centre, paired perfectly with a strong coffee.
By lunchtime, Patric was hungry again (I wasn’t). He dove into another Neapolitan classic, pizza fritta (the completa al salami), at Pizzeria Zia Esterina Sorbillo, Via dei Tribunali, 58, 80138 Naples, Italy (Website). I stole a bite, and while delicious, it felt like a heart attack in dough form.
In the afternoon, we explored Napoli Sotterranea, Piazza San Gaetano, 68, 80138 Naples, Italy (Website). This underground tour of ancient aqueducts and tunnels wasn’t our first subterranean adventure, so it wasn’t mind-blowing, but the aqueducts were impressive. We also visited the Greco-Roman theatre, hidden inside what was someone’s home until just 40 years ago! Another highlight was strolling down Via San Gregorio Armeno, the famous “nativity scene street,” where you can buy everything for your presepe (Christmas crib).
For dinner, we loved Pizzeria Da Attilio, Via Pignasecca, 17, 80134 Naples, Italy (Website), for more pizza, followed by a visit to the stunning Galleria Umberto I, Via San Carlo, 80132 Naples, Italy – a breathtaking 19th-century shopping arcade.
Day 3
My favourite activity (besides devouring pastries) was visiting Herculaneum, Via Villa dei Misteri, 1, 80056 Ercolano, Italy (Website). Highly recommended by guides and friends, this archaeological site, buried by Vesuvius in 79 AD alongside Pompeii, was fascinating. Unlike Pompeii, Herculaneum was a wealthier seaside town, evident in its intricate mosaics. The tragedy of those who perished hiding in boat sheds was haunting. It was swelteringly hot, so bring plenty of water if you go.
Our stay was elevated by an incredible find on Booking.com: Domus Sibyllina, Palazzo Cavalcanti, Via Toledo, 348, Plebiscito, 80134 Naples, Italy (Booking Link). Rated 9.8/10 from 264 reviews, this gem is in a fully renovated villa on the bustling Via Toledo, with a view of a castle in the distance. Our room had one of the comfiest beds, a stunning bathroom, a functional balcony, a walk-in robe, a fridge, an ironing board, and a desk. With three locked doors and a lift, we felt incredibly secure. I didn’t realise how prime the location was until we arrived, but I can’t recommend it enough.
Reflection
Naples has won me over with its charm, food, and history. It’s not perfect, but it’s real, and that’s what makes it unforgettable. Next stop – we return to the Amalfi Coast for three days in Minori and a return to Positano.