The Island Odyssey Kicks Off in Ponza
I may not have mentioned earlier, but this year's adventure is officially dubbed The Island Odyssey! Our first stop? Ponza, a gem in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Picture an imaginary triangle between Rome and Naples—Ponza sits at its apex. After six days here, we've learned it's a rustic yet pricey haven for well-heeled Italians.
Getting There
Getting to Ponza has a few options. We chose a train from Rome to the coastal town of Formia, followed by a ferry to the island. After discovering Ponza last year through fellow travellers in Ischia, we booked the Hotel Chiaia di Luna via Booking.com. At $2,200 for five nights in a sea-view double room, this family-run hotel is considered one of Ponza's finest.
It's comfortable, though by Australian standards, more like a 3.5-star with some quirks. For instance, the island's hottest nightclub was literally outside our window. Sunday to Thursday, the music stopped at 10:30 PM, but Friday and Saturday, the €15 minimum for a drink (even a basic spritz) meant the venue kept going until midnight. Not an issue for us—we've embraced our inner Italian night owls—but early sleepers, take note.
What Makes the Hotel Special
The sunsets. Watching the bright orange sun dip behind Ponza's cliffs is unreal—they even play the Close Encounters of the Third Kind soundtrack each evening to mark the moment! By day, the hotel delivers.
Breakfast highlights:
- Sweet-tooths: Sorrento orange cake
- Savoury fans: scrambled eggs, bacon, DIY caprese with spectacular tomatoes and mozzarella
- Espresso flows freely
The large, clean pool is surrounded by plenty of lettini sunbeds—grab an undercover one early to avoid baking in the sun.
Ponza Itinerary
Day 1
After a long journey from Saturnia in Tuscany, we arrived and dined at a waterfront restaurant near the port. It was oddly more "international" than traditional Italian, catering to locals craving smaller, non-Italian portions. Exhausted, we crashed.
Day 2
We headed to the port to rent a beautiful barca (€120) and circumnavigated Ponza, stopping at its stunning beaches. Five hours on the water was pure bliss. After freshening up, we hit Bar Maga Circe for aperitivi. By day, it's a bar/gelateria; by night, cocktails reign. The snacks paired with our wine were so good we could've skipped dinner at Trattoria La Favara next door, but the food there was solid.
Day 3
A slight travel bug kept us poolside, which turned out to be relaxing. For aperitivi, we tried Pasticceria Gildo. We should have gone home but instead dined next door at Trattoria La Lanterna. Four plates later—including our first spada of the trip—we learned our lesson: we were already full!
Day 4
We rented another boat to visit Palmarola, inspired by Margot Robbie's trip last year. Highlight of the odyssey so far! The crossing was rough, but Palmarola's crystal-clear waters, perfect swimming temperature, and lunch at O Francese—anchovies, salads, and a litre of house white—made it unforgettable. Fun fact: it's also a hotel!
Day 5
We took a €7 round-trip ferry to Frontone Beach. Booking an umbrella and chairs (€30) in advance would've been smart, but we snagged the last two. The water was breathtaking. Showers cost extra, toilets are free.
Day 6
We'd planned to rent a scooter but opted for another pool day instead. Glorious.
Would I Return?
Probably not. That said, it's worth a visit if you're after a less touristy, upscale island vibe with stunning scenery and a taste of Italian high life. It is a "locals' holiday" experience.
Next stop: vibrant Napoli!